Guide to Inhibiting Cure of Addition-Cure Silicone in 3D Printed Molds

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With the continuous advancement of 3D printing technology using SLA resin, it has become common practice to utilize a 3D printer for constructing a master mold using UV resin when making silicone molds. However, when platinum-cured silicone comes into contact with UV resin models that are not fully cured by UV light, the curing process can be inhibited. This article will provide a solution to the inhibition of curing of platinum-cured silicone caused by UV resin models.

cure inhibited silicone

Cause Analysis

UV resin is a common material used in 3D printing, and it can rapidly solidify under UV light exposure. Analysis indicates that in models printed with 3D printing, the incomplete curing of phosphine oxide photoinitiators can cause platinum catalyst poisoning, which is a prevalent issue in SLA resin materials. However, the photoinitiators can be eliminated through post-curing treatment.

UV Resin Curing Principle

In the SLA (Stereolithography) printing process, a laser is directed at specific areas of the resin material to initiate curing. Once this step is completed, the entire object is considered finished. However, the printed resin object is not fully cured at this stage. To understand this phenomenon, it is necessary to delve into the principle of the transition from a liquid to a solid state in UV resin.

The liquid resin is composed of a mixture of various free monomers and photoinitiators. When exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light, the photoinitiators undergo a reaction that prompts the free monomers to combine and crosslink, leading to solidification. However, this only represents the initial curing stage, and many areas may not achieve the desired degree of crosslinking. Therefore, post-curing has a significant impact on the final performance of the printed object, but it is often overlooked in SLA printing.

Therefore, addition-cure silicone is suitable for most SLA 3D printed models, but it is crucial for the printed models to be fully cured. However, in the case of most 3D-printed UV resin models, they are not fully cured, and directly pouring platinum-cure silicone will result in a sticky and uncured outcome. To address this issue, we have provided four solutions for your reference.

1. Surface Treatment

Place the 3D-printed object in isopropyl alcohol (91%) or ethanol and let it soak for 10-15 minutes to remove any uncured resin residue from the surface of the model. Next, clean the model with a dishwashing detergent or soap bath, followed by a thorough rinse with water. Finally, air dry the model and complete the curing process by heat drying (recommended at 80-90°C for 3-5 minutes).

Evaluation: Isopropyl alcohol is used because it has the ability to break down uncured photopolymer resin.

2. Post-Curing

UV resin models can achieve better curing effects when exposed to both heat and light. In fact, sunlight is also a viable source of UV light. If you have enough time, placing the model under UV light or in direct sunlight can help with the curing process. The curing time may vary for different models, depending on the level of exposure to UV light or direct sunlight in different areas of the model. It is important to ensure that all areas of the model are exposed to UV light or direct sunlight for complete curing.

Evaluation: The two methods mentioned above can be used in combination, and it is also possible to repeat the cleaning and post-curing steps 2-3 times.

3. Primer

The method operates on the principle of applying a thin and even layer of primer (such as nitrocellulose primer, clear acrylic paint, Inhibit X, etc.) onto the model's surface, either through wiping, soaking, or spraying. After curing, the primer forms a protective shield over the surface, acting as a barrier. This prevents any interaction between the uncured photoinitiator on the model and the platinum-cured silicone, effectively preventing cure inhibition.

Evaluation: This method is particularly effective for models with intricate undercuts (deep areas, odd angles) since exposing these recessed regions to a UV light source can be challenging. However, it is worth noting that this method may lead to slight dimensional deviations in the cast mold.

4. Substitution

First, create a silicone mold using tin-cure silicone for the UV resin model. However, if your project allows for a certain degree of shrinkage, you can directly use tin-cure silicone to make the mold, as it is not affected by UV resin curing inhibition.

Next, cast the epoxy resin model using the tin-cured silicone mold, which will result in an epoxy resin model that matches the original UV resin model. While it is not mandatory to use epoxy resin in this step, you can also opt for other suitable materials. However, it is important to ensure that the chosen material does not impede the curing process of the platinum cure silicone.

Finally, use the epoxy resin model as the master mold and create the silicone mold using platinum-cure silicone.

Evaluation: Tin-cure silicone exhibits a slightly higher shrinkage rate compared to platinum-cure silicone and has a thicker viscosity, necessitating the use of a vacuum pump for degassing during application.

It is important to note that these solutions are only suggestions. The specific solution may vary depending on the silicone and 3D printing materials employed. Therefore, it is necessary to validate the solution that best suits your project through actual testing.

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  • 2024-03-24

    Matthew

    I'll summarize the issue of platinum silicone curing inhibition in 3D printed master model: Platinum-cured silicone's curing inhibition only occurs in areas that come into contact with contaminants, and the extent of uncured areas is directly proportional to the level of contamination. For the same 3D printed model, letting it sit for 3-5 days will result in fewer uncured areas compared to just 1-2 days, because the more completely the resin on the model's surface cures, the less it affects the platinum silicone's curing. Therefore, extending the resting time to address curing inhibition issues can be effective, and appropriately baking or exposing the model to sunlight can accelerate the curing of the resin on the model's surface.
  • 2023-09-03

    Richard

    Spraying primer on the model will alter its dimensions and may even obscure fine details. This solution is unacceptable to me as I need the molds to produce precise and intricate parts.
  • 2023-09-02

    Joshua

    I have given up using platinum-cured silicone for mold making. I have been consistently using tin-cured silicone instead, as it doesn't have issues with curing inhibition.
  • 2023-09-01

    Jennifer

    I have tested a 4% PVA solution and found it effective for my project. I applied two layers on my 3D-printed resin model and let it dry and cure. The results were very good, and I have been using this solution to solve the issue of platinum-cured silicone not curing.
  • 2023-08-31

    RachelAltionor

    My approach involves placing the model for 10-15 days after cleaning, curing, and polishing. I haven't encountered any issues with mold not curing using this method. If you're unsure whether you've waited long enough, simply mix a small amount of platinum-cured silicone gel and observe if it cures after your model has been left for a period of time.
  • 2023-08-30

    BrandonLyined

    After 3D printing, drying the resin model and letting it sit for 2 to 4 weeks seems to reduce the inhibition issue to some extent.
  • 2023-08-29

    EricConblebe

    I have tried Inhibit X, and although it is effective, it did not give me the surface quality I desired. Instead, I let my 3D-printed resin model cure, then I polished it and placed it under UV light for another round of curing before leaving it for a few months. This is the method I discovered to prevent platinum-cured silicone from curing inhibition.
  • 2023-08-28

    Maricela

    Clean the uncured resin on the UV resin model. 2. Heat the model at 150°C for 2-3 minutes. 3. Expose the model to UV light as usual. 4. Roll the model in Inhibit X for 5 minutes. 5. Dry and cure the model before use.
  • 2023-08-27

    Jonathan

    We only need to bake the UV resin mold at 60°C (140°F) for 30 hours, and then pour in the platinum-cured silicone mixture.
  • 2023-08-26

    BillClinton

    Sure, I'd be glad to share my method. First, I clean the mold surface with IPA or ethanol, and then cure the mold at 80°C (176°F) for 4 hours. I evenly spray a release agent on the model surface, let it sit at room temperature for 10 minutes, and then pour the prepared clear liquid silicone into the mold. After that, I cure it at 80°C (176°F). In the end, the silicone can fully cure without any issues.
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